![]() ![]() Suiting also came with its style quirks a double hemmed effect on a skirt suit, slightly flared dress trousers paired with elongated jackets, and surprising color combos. It also ran down the front of a black silk sheath dress as a picture print, his idea of modernizing the concept. (Sialelli explained that flowers were a big part of Jeanne Lanvin's archival scrapbooks saying she was obsessed with their symbolism. In this sense, Sialelli was referring to the smart, slightly oversized tailored pieces for men and women which were given a new view a green croc-embossed car coat, a swingy trapeze shape peacoat, a salmon bouclé slouchy overcoat or men's shearling jacket with an intarsia Calla Lily which appeared on several pieces throughout. Even for me, it took time to understand the function of Lanvin in the retail landscape," he said, adding, "As a ready-to-wear house, you need wearability that feels attractive and that you can relate to, so I think that is why I call this collection a style exercise because I am giving context to wearable pieces that encapsulate the idea and the emotion of the house." "There is something we forget because we see a lot of collections as fashion people, but Lanvin is a ready-to-wear house. ![]() How you can have fashion and business and not kill fashion.Post-show, Sialelli spoke to reporters about his latest collection since taking over the reins at 31 in, 2018. How the skills of the French atelier are valid, precious, and relevant. Who's next? Which designer? Which pope? This is a collection that is not just a global view, but more a local view. "It is about the world changing, women changing. The ones he does prefer are "love," "happy," and "help." And he wants us to pay attention to those words: "I think this is a collection about thinking," he explained. Unusually for a fashion designer, Elbaz often starts his collections by contemplating spoken and written words here, they were purposefully on display for all to see. In this instance they spelled "cool." "There is no word I hate more than cool!" Elbaz declared after the show. That was reinforced by the reams of thick gold chains, a constant motif in the collection, along with the letters that dangled from them. In one of the many standout looks, featuring a godet skirt and a top encrusted with winged insect appliqués and embroideries, the shoes transformed the meaning of such a mélange to one of a warped bobby-soxer. She was no longer wearing prissy slippers, and her new footwear altered the entire silhouette. It was the sign that a much tougher girl was emerging for Elbaz this evening. This was most noticeable in the shoes: Gone were the ballet flats in their place, a scaled-down version of a men's oxford. ![]() In anybody else's hands, this could have been something of a mess in Alber Elbaz's, it felt like freedom and fun.Ī teenage atmosphere permeated the collection, a schoolgirlish view that avoided the saccharine and cute and could apply to all ages. There was an almost twenties feeling in the first dress, an idea of a floral appliquéd tracksuit in the second look, a fifties cocktail dress in the third…Each model reveled in an idiosyncratic appearance of her own, with makeup tailored to meet her individual needs and hair mostly tied back. The spirit was carefree yet elegant, controlled yet not giving a damn. Here day and night, night and day were all mixed together, sometimes in one look. This relaxed mood continued as the popcorn was swept up and the show began. It was like a high-fashion fairground where you might bump into Catherine Deneuve playing pitch-and-toss. As male ushers served popcorn, cans of soft drinks, and mini bottles of Champagne to the milling crowd, a casual, loose atmosphere was created. That's downbeat in Lanvin terms, you understand, which is to say not very sedate at all by most established norms. The mood for the latest Lanvin show felt almost downbeat on arrival at the venue of the École des Beaux-Arts.
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